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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.